Lesson 10: Cheat sheet
Every suspension and differential setting on one page: which way to move it, what you feel at the front and at the rear, and where to start. Print it and keep it next to the TV or the rig.
How to use it: routine and order
In GT7
Everything on this page lives in Car Settings. From the Quick Menu, race regulations take priority, so some sliders may be locked. Ranges differ from car to car: read your own slider's limits before you use any number here.
Requires Fully Customizable Suspension for Natural Frequency, the dampers, Anti-Roll Bar, camber and toe (Height-Adjustable Sports Suspension opens only Body Height Adjustment), Fully Customizable LSD for Fully Customized, and on 4WD cars Torque-Vectoring Center Differential for the split. Gr.3 and Gr.4 cars usually come with these fitted.
Test routine
- Duplicate Sheet first, so you can always go back.
- Fix the conditions: same track, tires, fuel and line.
- Drive three clean laps. Write down the phase (entry, mid-corner, exit) and the end (understeer or oversteer).
- Make one change, at one end, one or two steps.
- Drive three more laps. Judge laps two and three, in the phase you tried to fix.
- Better: keep it and go a little further. Worse or no different: revert.
- Check PP. If it shows !, press Triangle to recalculate. Measure shows the change; L1/R1 opens Measurement History.
Tuning order
- Platform: Body Height Adjustment and Natural Frequency, front equal to rear.
- Dampers: Damping Ratio (Compression) first, then Damping Ratio (Expansion).
- Alignment: Negative Camber Angle, then Toe Angle in tiny steps, front first.
- Balance and traction: Anti-Roll Bar and the LSD as fine-tuning tools.
- Last tweaks: ride-height rake, toe, and Downforce balance.
Name one sheet per track or condition (dry, wet).
Rule of thumb
The stiffer end slides first. Stiffen the Front (springs or bar) and you get more understeer; stiffen the Rear and you get more oversteer. Softening does the opposite.
Suspension settings
Each card says what moving the slider does at the Front and at the Rear, then gives a starting point. Starting points are course coaching numbers, not game facts.
Ride height & Natural Frequency
Body Height Adjustment (mm)
- Lower both: lower center of gravity, less pitch and roll on smooth tracks. Too low and you hit curbs or the body grounds out.
- Lower Front (front below rear): more front grip on entry, sharper turn-in, and the rear unloads, so a tendency toward oversteer.
- Lower Rear: a tendency toward understeer.
Natural Frequency (Hz)
- Raise Front: sharper response, then more understeer once the car is loaded. Lower: more front grip, softer turn-in.
- Raise Rear: more oversteer, less traction over bumps. Lower: more rear grip and exit traction.
- Raise both for grippier tires and downforce; lower both for bumps and the wet.
Start: front equal to rear for both. Height as low as the track allows without grounding. Frequency by class in the table below. GT7's manual: road cars about 1.1–1.5 Hz, race cars about 3–5 Hz.
Dampers
Damping Ratio (Compression) (%)
- Higher compresses more slowly: less dive and roll, less compliance.
- Lower Front: weight reaches the nose faster under braking, so more front grip and less entry understeer. Raise: lazier entry.
- Lower Rear: the rear follows bumps and curbs better on exit, so more traction. Raise: less squat, but less grip over bumps.
Damping Ratio (Expansion) (%)
- Higher rebounds more slowly: steadier after big weight shifts.
- Raise Front: the nose rises more slowly when you get on the throttle, holding front grip early in the exit. Too high and the wheel can't drop into dips fast enough, so it loses contact over bumps.
- Lower Rear: more rotation on entry. Raise: stability and an understeer tendency.
Start: compression 25–38 %, expansion 35–48 %, expansion above compression. On most cars the sliders run about 20–40 % and 30–50 %.
Anti-roll bars
Anti-Roll Bar (level)
- Higher is stiffer: less roll. Only works when the car rolls, so mostly mid-corner.
- Stiffen Front: quicker first response, then more understeer mid-corner. Soften: more front grip.
- Stiffen Rear: more oversteer, weaker exit traction. Soften: calmer rear, better traction.
- A final balance tool. Too stiff relative to the springs lifts the inside wheel. In the wet, soften both, the rear possibly by a lot.
Start: Front 4–7, Rear 3–6. Most cars run 1–10.
Camber & toe
Negative Camber Angle (degrees)
- Higher tilts the tops of the wheels inward: more cornering grip, but a smaller patch for braking and traction, and more wear. Too much hurts.
- Raise Front: more front grip mid-corner, less understeer at the apex. Run more at the front than the rear.
- Raise Rear: more rear grip in long corners, at some cost to traction on exit.
Toe Angle (degrees)
- Slider right is toward toe-in; slider left is toward toe-out. Adjust last, in tiny steps, front first.
- Toward toe-out Front: sharper turn-in, less straight-line calm. Toward toe-in: steadier, but an understeer risk.
- Toward toe-in Rear: straight-line and high-speed stability. Less toe-in: more rotation.
Start: camber Front 1.0–3.5°, Rear 0.8–2.5°. Toe Front 0 to 0.05° toward toe-out, Rear 0.10–0.20° toward toe-in.
Common mistake
Fixing a platform problem with the finishing tools. If the car wallows or skips over curbs, no amount of Anti-Roll Bar or Toe Angle will cure it. Go back to Natural Frequency and the dampers first.
Differential settings
A diff acts on the axle it drives. Locking a Rear diff (FR, MR, RR, the rear of a 4WD) pushes the car toward oversteer; locking a Front diff (FF, the front of a 4WD) pushes it toward understeer.
Limited-slip differential
Differential Gear Selection
- One-Way LSD: locks on throttle only. Smoother turn-in; FF cars often use it.
- Two-Way LSD: locks both ways. Braking stability and throttle steering, but entry understeer.
- Fully Customized: opens the three sliders below.
The three sliders
- Raise Initial Torque: locks sooner in every phase, more traction, and exaggerates the layout: Rear diff toward oversteer, Front diff toward understeer. Can hinder turning.
- Raise Acceleration Sensitivity: more lock on throttle, better exit traction, harder to place on exit, and less stable when you lift.
- Raise Braking Sensitivity: more stable on braking and entry, lets you brake later, but harder to rotate (entry understeer).
- Lower any of them to free up rotation in that phase.
Start (Initial / Accel / Braking): FR, MR, RR 10 / 25 / 15. FF 7 / 20 / 7. Each slider typically runs 5–60. Modern trend: low initial, more lock under load.
4WD & torque split
Torque-Vectoring Center Differential
Choose "Torque-Vectoring Center Differential" instead of "Normal" to unlock Front/Rear Torque Distribution, shown as F:R. It spans everything from FR-style oversteer to rigid 4WD understeer.
- More rear torque (toward the rear): the car rotates on power like an FR, with more exit oversteer.
- Less rear torque (toward 50:50): stable and secure, but more exit understeer.
Front and rear LSD on 4WD
- Milder locking at the Front, so the nose can still turn in.
- Stronger locking at the Rear for drive out of the corner.
- Tune for front response on entry first.
Start: split 35:65 to 40:60. LSD Front 7 / 15 / 7, Rear 10 / 25 / 15. The split's range varies; check your car.
Starting values by class
Course starting points, scaled to grip: more tire and more downforce want a stiffer car. A sensible first try is the middle of the range. If your car's slider doesn't reach a number, use the nearest end and note where it sits.
Suspension by class
| Setting | Road / N, Comfort–Sports tires | Road car, Racing tires | Gr.4 | Gr.3 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Natural Frequency, front = rear | 1.6–2.4 Hz | 2.4–3.2 Hz | 3.0–3.8 Hz | 3.5–4.5 Hz |
| Damping Ratio (Compression) | 25–30 % | 28–35 % | 30–35 % | 30–38 % |
| Damping Ratio (Expansion) | 35–40 % | 38–45 % | 40–45 % | 40–48 % |
| Anti-Roll Bar Front | 4–5 | 5–6 | 5–7 | 5–7 |
| Anti-Roll Bar Rear | 3–5 | 4–6 | 4–6 | 4–6 |
| Negative Camber Angle Front | 1.0–2.0° | 2.0–3.0° | 2.5–3.5° | 3.0–3.5° |
| Negative Camber Angle Rear | 0.8–1.5° | 1.5–2.0° | 1.5–2.5° | 2.0–2.5° |
| Toe Angle Front | 0 to 0.05° toward toe-out (slider left), every class | |||
| Toe Angle Rear | 0.10–0.20° toward toe-in (slider right), every class | |||
Differential by drivetrain
| Drivetrain and axle | Initial Torque | Acceleration Sensitivity | Braking Sensitivity |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR, MR, RR Rear | 10 | 25 | 15 |
| FF Front | 7 | 20 | 7 |
| 4WD Front | 7 | 15 | 7 |
| 4WD Rear | 10 | 25 | 15 |
| 4WD Front/Rear Torque Distribution | 35:65 to 40:60 | ||
Symptom matrix and related settings
Find the phase, then the end that lets go. Try fix 1 first, alone, for three laps. Only then try fix 2. The Symptom Doctor has the longer list with reasons.
Symptom matrix
| Phase | Understeer: nose runs wide | Oversteer: rear steps out |
|---|---|---|
| Entry |
|
|
| Mid-corner |
|
|
| Exit |
|
|
If the inside rear wheel just spins up and the car bogs on exit, the diff is too open: go the other way and raise Acceleration Sensitivity.
Related settings
- More Downforce Front: less understeer. More Rear: less oversteer. Both cost top speed.
- Brake balance (set Brake Balance Selection to Brake Controller to open Front/Rear Balance): toward rear gives more entry rotation and can turn unstable; toward front is stable but adds entry understeer. Verify which way your slider reads with a quick test.
- Ballast adds kg. Ballast Positioning: negative is toward the front, positive toward the rear; 50:50 is generally ideal.
- Tires are chosen separately for front and rear. A tire change means a new baseline.
PP and BoP reminders
- Suspension edits can move PP. PP-limited races need a valid PP: no !.
- Power Restrictor and Ballast are the usual ways to bring PP back down when a tune pushes you over a limit; check the figure after each change.
- With BoP on, Gr.1, Gr.2, Gr.3, Gr.4 and Gr.B cars get weight and power adjusted and installed tuning parts returned to stock. Other cars are restored to default.
- Lobbies can turn "BoP/Tuning Forbidden" On and then set "Tuning" to "Prohibited". Sport-mode events vary: check the regulations screen.
- GT7 has no tire pressure, caster, bump stop or separate high- and low-speed damping settings. Ignore setups that list them.
Starting points, not gospel. Every car in GT7 has its own slider ranges, so check each car's limits and confirm each change on track.
Key takeaways
- Name the phase and the end first; the fix follows from that.
- The stiffer end slides first: stiffer front adds understeer, stiffer rear adds oversteer.
- Tune in order: platform, dampers, alignment, then bars and diff for balance, then the small tweaks.
- Each LSD slider owns a phase: Braking Sensitivity on entry, Acceleration Sensitivity on exit, Initial Torque everywhere.
- One change, three laps, keep or revert. Every number here is a starting point for your car's own range.
Check yourself
Use the sheet to answer, then open each question to check.
Your FR car pushes wide as you turn in to slow hairpins, before you touch the throttle. What do you try first, and what second?Open to see the answer
That's entry understeer. First lower Damping Ratio (Compression) Front so weight reaches the front tires sooner under braking. If it still pushes, lower Braking Sensitivity, or switch from Two-Way LSD to One-Way LSD.
Your MR car is fine on entry but the rear slides wide in the middle of long, fast corners. Which card do you go to, and what is the first change?Open to see the answer
Mid-corner oversteer: the anti-roll bar card and the symptom matrix. Soften Anti-Roll Bar Rear by one step. If that's not enough, lower Natural Frequency Rear a little, or add rear Downforce if the car has a wing.
Your 4WD Gr.4 car is stable everywhere but pushes wide every time you get back on the throttle. Which setting moves which way?Open to see the answer
Exit understeer on a 4WD. Shift Front/Rear Torque Distribution toward the rear, for example from 40:60 to 35:65, so the car rotates more on power. Keep the front LSD milder than the rear.
Your car feels twitchy on long straights and nervous in fast kinks, but turns in fine. Which slider, which way?Open to see the answer
Toe Angle Rear, toward toe-in (slider right), in a tiny step. Rear toe-in adds straight-line and high-speed stability, at a small cost in rotation.
You join a lobby with BoP on in your tuned Gr.3 car, and it doesn't feel like your setup. Why?Open to see the answer
With BoP on, Gr.3 cars get weight and power adjusted and installed tuning parts returned to stock. Which settings stay open varies by room and event, so check the regulations screen before you change anything.